The sight of the “Blue City” of Chefchaouen, otherwise known as the “Blue Pearl of Morocco”, was absolutely beautiful. But before we could do any exploring, we had to check into our riad. Tracy and Sarah were not staying at the same location as Craig and I, so Tracy dropped us off. The riad we chose was named Riad Darechchaouen and was situated halfway up the mountain. It had a commanding view of the city below, which we of course couldn’t help but stop and appreciate. We got checked in and were shown to our room. It was nicely decorated and the pale blue walls gave it a very tranquil feel. I knew we would be comfortable there. We left our bags in the room and headed outside.
There was just enough time for us to explore the grounds and make some photos before dinner. We decided to eat in the restaurant at the riad and we were glad that we did. The food was delicious and served by candlelight. The ambiance given to the dining hall by the soft light of the candles was just what we needed after our busy day. We ate our delicious meal and went back to our room. We were planning to meet up with the cousins the next day and start our exploration of the city. I was thrilled at the thought of what we might discover!
A Lovely Day for a Leisurely Walk
The next morning turned out to be lovely. Another beautiful blue sky hung overhead and the temperature was not bad for February- cool but not cold. We met up with the cousins and headed through a large towered archway to the medina. It was kind of an uphill walk because the city is situated in the Rif Mountains and is very hilly. The city’s name Chefchaouen literally means “look at the horns”. This is a reference to the shape of the two main peaks the town is situated on.
As we walked, we passed a creek with several pretty waterfalls running through town. Alongside the waterfalls there were two covered basins and some flat concrete areas. Turns out these are wash basins and areas to wash rugs. We saw some people doing just that as we passed through. For an American, this was an interesting site and not something you see everyday. It was yet another peak into traditional Moroccan life.
A Tranquil Mesmerizing Medina
We wandered around the medina for quite a while. There were shops, just as any other medina would have, but it felt different. The shop owners seemed indifferent as to whether you purchased anything or not. Everyone was very laid back and the walk through the medina felt like time had slowed to a crawl. We were all just mesmerized by the beauty of the town. The bright blue against the stark white on the walls and sidewalks was so calming. Everyone who lived there seemed to have a gorgeous blue door, often with big black rivets and hinges. They were like works of art, but functional ones that beckoned you to knock and visit awhile with the occupants.
We kept walking and entered the Place Outa el Hammam, the main area of the medina. It was very open and airy, with shops surrounding the space. All kinds of colorful goods were laid out on display- pottery, rugs, clothing, books. Tents with tables and seating were also set up in front of restaurants, inviting diners to eat outdoors. People were wandering around shopping, visiting with each other, or just enjoying the day sitting on a bench. It was not terribly busy and we felt at ease. We had met up with Craig’s cousins, so we went to meet a friend of Tracy’s. She introduced him, “This is my friend Mohammed Ali”. Before you get too excited though, not THAT Mohammed Ali… but he was an interesting guy. Turns out that name is all too common in that town.
Jellabas and A Room of Mystery and Enchantment
We sat and talked for a while with Mohammed and had a bite to eat. Then he invited us to his family’s shop nearby. His family sold many goods, including tangines and pottery, but also jellabas and carpets. There was no pressure this time to look at rugs- we simply meandered around the shop checking things out. Tracy said we should all put on jellabas and see how we look. We thought “well, when in Rome…”, so we did. They were like wearing a nice woolen robe in public. After a goofy picture of us in our Moroccan jellabas (sorry but I’m not sharing that “hot mess” of a photo!), we all took them off. Craig decided though those things were pretty comfy, which he wasn’t wrong about. So, he bought one. Turns out the next day he would be very thankful for that, but we’ll get to that later.
The rest of the shop was definitely not disappointing either. In the back room, the weaver was busy at his loom. Craig knelt down and took a terrific photo of him busy at work- which the shopkeepers thought was funny. He also got a great shot later of another room. It was full of antique scabbards, necklaces, ceramic and metallic bowls, Moroccan lamps and various other accoutrements. Craig dubbed it “the room of mystery and enchantment”, which I thought was fitting given the “Genie” lamps.
We decided we were ready to leave, so we wandered out onto the Place Outa el Hammam again. We soon decided we couldn’t leave Chefchaouen though without “rocking the Kasbah”.
Leave a Reply